We almost didn’t make it to Torres del Paine. Our timeline — coupled with the complicated permitting process — almost rendered impossible the famed W Circuit. But after a morning of running around Puerto Natales, we secured our camping reservations for the 4-day trek.
With months-long travels throughout Patagonia, we hadn’t planned our treks to the day — a mistake for the heavily trodden Torres del Paine.
Campsite Reservations Required
Due to camper-caused fires and other environmental damage, the national park added additional controls over hikers. In order to enter the park for an overnight trek, you need to demonstrate your reservations at campsites. But the sites are owned by various entities: national park system CONAF and private companies Fantástico Sur and Vértice. Most people make online reservations months in advance. We, slightly frenzied, spent the day prior to our hike running between the three offices and pursuing a feasible route. All the free CONAF sites were booked, as were most of the cheaper camping sites; we ended up having to splurge on one unnecessarily well-equipped campsite. But in the end, we managed to compile an unusual but copacetic route with day hikes.
Prior to the hike, we stopped into Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales. The owner is a Portland transplant who’s spent the past 15 years backpacking and guiding in Patagonia. Every day at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., he delivers a free talk covering the details of Torres del Paine, including advice on everything from logistics to gear to attitude. The audience comprised hikers who’d logged more than 100 consecutive days on a trail (my boyfriend Connor) to those who’d backpacked just a few times (me). We all got something from the session. My favorite tip? You can pick up ziplock bags from Don Bosco in the bakery section behind the bread.
Day 1
One of my favorite views in Torres del Paine was before we even began our trek. As recommended by the Erratic Rock speaker, we hopped off the bus at the catamaran stop and sped up the road to the right of the lake. After about 10 minutes, we came to an aquamarine waterfall surrounded by grassy fields.
Once on the catamaran, I’d suggest climbing up to the top deck and sitting on the righthand side. You’ll get the best views of the hike to come.
After setting up camp at Paine Grande, we set off for Glacier Gray. The day was windy, the trail rocky and dusty. We’d talked about going all the way to the suspension bridge but decided to stop halfway at the glacier lookout. Why? We’d left a bottle of wine at camp, and sipping it sounded so much better than battling the wind!
Our styrofoam cups came from the bus station, the wine opener from the market at camp. We popped open our Km. 0 Cuvee from our road trip around Uruguay. If you pack a bottle, I’d suggest bringing it down to the waterfront. Although the campground is packed, nobody wanders to the beach.
Later in the evening within the designated cooking area, we ate dinner with two retirees, one of whose daughter had offered to purchase his ticket to anywhere in the world that he wanted to go. He settled on Patagonia and invited a friend. They’ve spent a month on the road.
Day 2
The early morning was windy and rainy — one of those days you don’t even want to peek outside the tent. But once we finally left camp, we enjoyed beautiful weather: drizzling rain with sunshine and light breeze.
The hike starts with a climb to a lake overlook. We made it to Campamento Italiano with tons of energy then ditched our packs to climb up to Mirador Británico. The drizzle and breeze gave way to driving rain and wind, but we eventually made it to the top. Unfortunately, fog obscured most of the renowned lookout. But we were mostly content along the trail, which winds through a verdant green forest.
From Campamento Italiano, I can imagine that the trip to Campamento Cuernos would be stunning in good weather. And although we did still enjoy the sweeping lake views, we felt crushed by the wind and rain. Aside from weather conditions, rocky terrain makes for slower hiking.
But once you arrive, Cuernos makes for a great little camp. It has a cozy bar with cheeseburgers and drinks. Drained from the long day, we opted to make our own food and head to sleep.
Day 3
We opted for a leisurely day. The trail from Campamento Cuernos to Central winds around the mountain, often with epic views of the lake. Upon arrival to camp, I showered and hand washed some clothes, setting them out in the sun to dry. We hung around camp and had a couple beers while overlooking Las Torres.
Day 4
We woke up before sunrise trying to catch the red towers, but clouds hid most of the ember light. After 35 minutes of waiting, we sprinted back to our tent and dove into our sleeping bags.
A few hours later, we joined the mass en route to Las Torres. We brought snacks and enjoyed a leisurely lunch overlooking the lake and towers. This is the park’s peak, as well as our final pinnacle. While sitting up top, we reflected on our trip to Torres del Paine. We personally preferred our experience in El Chaltén and its surrounding trails. Yet Torres del Paine has its own appeal. The social campsites are lively, the trails are well maintained, and the campsite amenities are welcomed in bad weather. If you’re able to secure camping reservations, the park is accessible to a wide variety of hikers — from casual day hikers to first-time backpackers to seasoned pros who enjoy a vibrant crowd. And then, of course, Torres del Paine is iconic; it offers exquisite scenery that will not stand to be overlooked.
Tips for Torres del Paine
Patagonian weather is unpredictable. Make sure your gear stays dry with layered plastic bags; we stuffed separate bags around our sleeping bags, heavy items, clothing and food. As the personal essentials, I’d recommend packing:
- one hiking outfit for the trip
- trekking poles for staying steady
- dry clothes and flip flops for camp
- sunscreen and sunglasses
Along the trail, all of the lodges (refugios) accept credit cards. Even if you’re camping, you can use all of the services, such as the restaurants and WiFi. Cash-only purchases include the entrance fee (CLP 21.000), shuttle bus (CLP 3.000) and catamaran (CLP 20.000).
If you’re staying at Paine Grande campground, hike halfway up to Glacier Gray instead of going all the way to Campamento Glacier Gray. You’ll save yourself the windy trip and see similarly impressive views.
At least on our rainy and windy day, Mirador Frances had even better views than the socked in Mirador Británico.
For the hike up to Las Torres, hit the trail before the 9 a.m. arrival of day’s first bus. Otherwise, the path is packed with day hikers.
Absolutely stunning!
Stunning!