Ayampe: Your Guide to Ecuador’s Easy Breezy Coastal Town

There’s something about Ayampe. Some say it’s an energy portal. Others say it traps you. As I see it, this Ecuadorian beach village gives out an open invitation. It welcomes you to relax, reflect and, yeah OK, stay a lot longer than you reckoned for.

Five weeks ago, I arrived with a couple of friends for a project painting the new public alternative school. After my friends took off on their travels, I planned to stick around for just a couple more days. But every day for a week, I gave $10 more for another night’s stay.

I’ll just take a cue from the town’s motto: “Don’t worry. Be Ayampe.”

Play

For such a tiny village, Ayampe packs in a fair amount of activities. Despite spending most of my time laying in the sand and bobbing in the ocean, I also engaged in several less sedentary ventures.

One such outing was a private surf class with Hermanos Monos, owned and operated by a sprightly, Malibu Ken-lookalike named Juan. One of many Argentine expats in town, Juan gave me my fix of che boludo while delivering a personalized, super helpful course. Y qué buena onda: By the end of the class, I was riding the waves.

Back on land, Ayampe is chock full of seasoned yoga instructors guiding practices throughout the week. But I’m cheap, so I often rolled out my mat on the sand for a self-guided practice.

Tour

Don’t miss the daylong $35 tours to Parque Nacional Machalilla on Isla de la Plata. This island has been dubbed the Poor Man’s Galapagos for its similar fauna at a fraction of the cost. Price aside, the flora’s distinct. The Galapagos are volcanic islands whereas Isla de la Plata moved off the mainland during tectonic shifts. Now we know.

To get there, take a bus from Ayampe to the nearby town of Puerto Lopez — where you can also stock up on anything from fresh-caught fish to pharmaceuticals. (Also, take note: There’s no ATM in Ayampe, so grab your cash from Puerto Lopez’s Pichincha Bank.)

For your tour to the island, you can nab a ticket from myriad tourist agencies. We opted for the first place we dropped into, which was called Whale Expeditions Tour Operator. Close enough. The trip includes an hourlong boat ride to the island, a hike around the island, and snorkeling off the coast around coral reef.

For me, the highlight of the day was learning about and witnessing the courtship of blue-footed boobies. Settle in for a story, my friends.

And we’re back to check out La Ruta del Colibrí. This trail winds up from the beach and into the jungle along a fresh-water river. The scenery is lush, green and laden with fluttering butterflies. We went our final day in Ayampe, barefoot and often gazing up through the sun-drenched canopy.

Eat

For a traditional ceviche lunch, look no further than El Rincón del Sol, which sits on the northern end of town in front of the new children’s park. Lunch in Ayampe typically runs from noon to 1:30 p.m. But if you ask nicely, the gracious owner will serve what’s left after hours.

On your way back to the beach, head past the home-turned-creamery. The family serves up 15-cent ice cream pops in jazzy flavors like coconut, blackberry and avocado. As far as I’m concerned, Los Heladitos de 15 Centavos are one of Ayampe’s truest treasures: homemade, sweet-priced treats from a friendly local family.

For a more practiced vibe, head over to The Fish House. This seaside, second-story spot boasts (arguably) the town’s best ceviche.

When you can’t handle any more patacones, you can linger a while in Café Compassion: an oasis for vegan meals, drinks and snacks. The restaurant, situated seaside behind La Tortuga Cabañas, offers the day’s three square meals, as well as cocktails for sunset. Don’t miss the massively satisfying falafel wrap.

Bonus: the place has great WiFi. I often found myself swinging by, both within the cafe and under the nearby cabanas on the beach.

Stay

I spent almost all five weeks in La Tortuga Suites and Hostel, one block from the ocean. The cozy and quiet hostel includes a communal kitchen and hammocked living space, as well as the town’s only bar, Selvamar. (Be sure to try the Selvita cocktail. And give Mimi a hug.)

Through our volunteer work, we became acquainted with La Tortuga’s gregarious owner, David Cardena Cevallos. Originally from Guayaquil, David stumbled upon a drowsy Ayampe some 25 years younger. He bought up half the town from a local and sold numerous parcels to friends and family — sometimes for $5.

Among David and other business owners and locals, there’s a common refrain: Ayampe isn’t Montañitas. In juxtaposition to this nearby party town, Ayampe wants to keep things quiet. It’s also communal. Residents pooled resources to build the new children’s park, and one local paid for signs to educate tourists on dangerous ocean currents.

In Ayampe, the tide is strong, both in the sea and among its inhabitants. One periodic artesian fair runs with the theme: SOMOS QUIEN ESTAMOS. We are who’s here.

And much like its slow, strong waves, this tiny town will draw you in. And then when it’s ready, it’ll churn you out back to shore — sparkling and spinning and salty. Encanto tropical.