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On my way out of Cuenca, a university student surveyed me on my tourism experience. What did I like best about the city? Its colonial architecture. How were my accommodations, rated from zero to five, 5 being highly recommended? 5. The food? 5. The shopping? 5 — with $0 left in my pocket.
The best time of day at Tierra de Aprendices is just past seven in the evening. The sun is lazily stretching its rays one last time before settling behind the hill. Everyone is quiet, solitary, tending to the day’s final tasks. Ros waters the plants. Pancho chops firewood for the night’s bonfire. Ben plants the seed of a plum he ate after lunch, musing that in 10 years he can return to see a tree enormous with fruit. I slice potatoes and veggies to blend into a spicy dipping sauce. We’ll eat it later with bread for once, a light …
In Mendoza, there are two types of tourists: wine lovers and crusty hikers. Being both, we spent a bit of time alternating between our fancy pants and dirty socks. Here are a handful of our favorite stops along the way.
Colorful and chaotic, Valparaíso is an industrious port city steeped in creativity. Beloved of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, this town is rich with culture, from its fresh seafood to stacked architecture to storied murals.
When you look at Uruguay on a map, it barely registers between giants Argentina and Brazil. But this small country packs a cultural punch — from ramshackle seaside towns to sprawling centuries-old vineyards. “Cada parte es única,” a shopkeeper in Carmelo told me. After an 11-day road trip around Uruguay, I had to agree: Each area is unique.
Never having lived in the center of a big city, I’m still tickled by the concept of delivery. I place my order on an app, pour a glass of wine and then, like a friend I’ve always wanted, someone on a motorcycle arrives 30 minutes later with my food in hand. But not all deliveries are created equal.
I would be remiss to begin any conversation about food in Argentina without first discussing its meat. As a longtime vegetarian, I never craved beef, and I considered steak to be the chewy brown stuff best dipped into mashed potatoes or smothered in sauces. And then I moved to Argentina.