Perito Moreno: Face to Face with a Glacier

We strode quickly to the bus station. We were 15 minutes from the terminal, and the bus to Perito Moreno left in 15 minutes. Glancing at the time, we broke into a run.

We hadn’t planned to go to Perito Moreno. We’d just arrived to El Calafate following a trip to El Chaltén and a hike along the Huemul Circuit; a relaxing afternoon sounded so nice. But after quickly evaluating our budget and schedule, we realized the extremely accessible Perito Moreno would make a pleasant afternoon trip.

“This is the dumbest thing we’ve done yet,” I squawked as we hoofed up the hill to the bus station. Worrying we wouldn’t make the bus, I wished we’d planned ahead a bit more. But guess what? We arrived on time and everything turned out beautifully — a reminder to self that last-minute plans can churn out the greatest surprises.

Getting There

You can catch the bus to Perito Moreno Glacier from the bus terminal in El Calafate. Buses leave in the morning around 8 a.m. and midday at about 1 p.m. We barely caught the last bus of the day at 1:30 p.m. Transportation cost ARS 800; park entry is ARS 700. You can add on tours, such as a boat ride that approaches the glacier’s base or a walk across its top. A bit strapped for cash, we opted to stay on land.

Hola, Hielo

The park surrounds the face of the glacier with well-maintained interwoven catwalks. The tiered paths afford a complete view of the massive river of ice: from its jagged sides to ridged top, seemingly endless.

We walked around for an hour or so before settling in for lunch overlooking the glacier. There we witnessed hunks of ice breaking off and crashing into the sea. Despite the frequent calving, Perito Moreno isn’t actually shrinking in size. Glaciologists continue to debate why this particular glacier is advancing and not retreating like most others. Meanwhile, we sit in awe.

There isn’t much to do at the park other than stroll around and stare in wonder. We walked along all the pathways within a couple of hours and then huddled at a dock overlooking the glacier. In the end, the only thing we missed was a bottle of wine. So if you go, please bring a drink and toast to the magnificence of nature.