From Sea to Cerro in Valparaíso

Colorful and chaotic, Valparaíso is an industrious port city steeped in creativity. Beloved of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, this town is rich with culture, from its fresh seafood to stacked architecture to storied murals.

Lay of the Land 

Valparaíso divides into two parts: the flatland with the downtown and ports, and the hills with distinct names and neighborhoods.

We stayed on Cerro Florida in a cozy Airbnb, owned by the greatest host I’ve ever had. For check in, she met us at a local landmark and even brought a translator in case we didn’t speak Spanish. The sun-soaked apartment, attached to her own, is stocked with shampoo and soap she made herself. Halfway through our stay, she delivered a bowl full of fresh fruit to our doorstep. And the view!

La Sebastiana

Our final stop in Valparaíso was one of my favorites. Neruda’s eclectic home brims with ocean-inspiration as it overlooks the city and sea. Entrance to the house costs CLP 7.000; a self-guided audio tour takes you through the house and history of Neruda, from his dining habits (never eat alone) to poetic muses (the ocean, of course) to political bent (diplomat, communist). You can wander for as long as you like but, sadly, can’t photograph the interior.

Parque Cultural de Valparaíso

Another interesting building rests on Cerro Cárcel. Once a prison, the renovated building now serves as a center for arts and culture. The cells offer practice space for performing artists, as well as studios for painters and sculptors. The building is poignant, especially its wall lined with photographs of socialist artists who were detained and tortured during the 1970s dictatorship. With new works produced within these walls, the structure now stands as an emblem of Chile’s indomitable artistry.

Caleta Portales

From downtown Valparaíso, it’s a a 20-minute bus ride to Caleta Portales, a bustling port and fish market. After wandering through aisles of the day’s catches, we grabbed some ceviche and added loads of toppings. We lunched at El Rey de Pescado Frito, a simple port-side eatery that cooks up magic in the kitchen: fish that’s fresh, fried, flavorful.

La Cevichería

Plentiful cocktails and inventive ceviche are set to a DJ spinning everything from Billie Holiday to Lada Gaga. We opted for the trio trial platter (mercado, Thai, Nipón) to varying degrees of spiciness. Our hearty main — gnocchi and salmon in a truffle butter sauce — filled in the gaps.