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Month on a Permaculture Farm in Chile

The best time of day at Tierra de Aprendices is just past seven in the evening. The sun is lazily stretching its rays one last time before settling behind the hill. Everyone is quiet, solitary, tending to the day’s final tasks. Ros waters the plants. Pancho chops firewood for the night’s bonfire. Ben plants the seed of a plum he ate after lunch, musing that in 10 years he can return to see a tree enormous with fruit. I slice potatoes and veggies to blend into a spicy dipping sauce. We’ll eat it later with bread for once, a light …

Buenos Aires: A City with Two Seasons

As far as I’m concerned, there are just two seasons in Buenos Aires: Absolutely Beautiful and Almost Unbearable. After more than two years in Argentina, I’ve observed how much the daily rhythm is driven or contained by weather. Do you want to see other humans? To go outside? It depends on the forecast.

Best Empanadas for Delivery in Buenos Aires

Never having lived in the center of a big city, I’m still tickled by the concept of delivery. I place my order on an app, pour a glass of wine and then, like a friend I’ve always wanted, someone on a motorcycle arrives 30 minutes later with my food in hand. But not all deliveries are created equal.

Steak: It’s Always What’s for Dinner

I would be remiss to begin any conversation about food in Argentina without first discussing its meat. As a longtime vegetarian, I never craved beef, and I considered steak to be the chewy brown stuff best dipped into mashed potatoes or smothered in sauces. And then I moved to Argentina.

Platforms: Everyone’s Favorite Shoes to Hate

Before coming to Buenos Aires, I’d never seen a pair of platforms in person. But porteñas, the women of this port city, love their platforms and wear them in every imaginable style. Black leather with studs. Tan suede with fringe and wooden soles. White pleather with rubber tire-treaded soles (my personal favorite, naturally).