Santiago: Sophisticated, Storied Capital of Chile

It’s tough to get to know a city over a handful of days. At a glance, it often appears familiar: glossy business district, gritty downtown, leafy parks, happy-hour soaked neighborhood. Have we met before?

I wish I could say Santiago and I are well acquainted. It’s a fascinating city: bustling from morning to nightlife, filled with social and artistic movements, nestled in a valley and punctuated by barren hills. But I think it takes time — months or more — to grasp the texture of a city. I hope we meet again.

In the Arts

What we were able to enjoy was the abundant street art, such as this piece at the Bellas Artes subway station. It’s a collaboration by longtime muralist Mono González and newcomer Inti Castro. González was prominent before the 1970s military coup and 17-year dictatorship. In his piece on the right, the watchful past branches out to a brighter future. On the left, Castro’s response is equally hopeful: distinct religions and cultures embrace each other. The piece is only six months old.

More historic, the Centro Cultural de Gabriela Mistral represents nearly 50 years of Chilean politics and culture. It was built in the ’70s as an initiative of socialist president Salvador Allende. To finish it in time for an international conference, thousands of Allende’s supporters gathered to work on it. After Allende was overthrown, dictator Augusto Pinochet claimed it as his headquarters. Decades later in 2010, the structure was reclaimed as a cultural center. Austere and solid, it stands as a reminder of the past, as its events celebrate the future through art.

Cerro San Cristobal

This 1,000-foot hill rises in the center of the city, at the top providing 360 views. We hoofed it up one morning for a bit of exercise and a lot of scenery.

Good Eats

Cosmopolitan in its culinary scene, Santiago has great food — from sidewalk sausages to fine dining.

I had a few favorites, but I would be remiss to not mention a couple more. Emporio la Rosa serves some of the smoothest ice cream this side of the Andes, and Sangucheria a Tu Paso in Bellavista makes all my cheap-eat dreams come true.

Peumayen

We put on our fancy pants for this chic, experiential restaurant. Its tasting menu comprises 22 small bites that showcase the gastronomy of Chile’s pre-colonial ancestry and spans all the way to modern-day Mapuche fare.

Jardín Mallinkrodt

From a mural-colored alleyway we wandered into this open courtyard surrounded by a handful of food trucks. Multiple vendors serve up their fare in a restaurant setting (save the French bulldog waddling around in search of bits of bacon and fries). The beer list is entirely imported — unideal, as we’d hoped to sample more of Chile’s brews. Fortunately, the menu makes up for it with national staples like chorrillana and carne mechada.

Sanguchería Ciudad Vieja

How many sandwiches did we have in Santiago? I’ve lost count. One memorable meal took place on the itty bitty balcony of Sanguchería Ciudad Vieja, which overlooks Cerro San Cristobal and the Bellavista neighborhood. Having just come from happy hour, we split an Austral Ruibarbo and the Sofisticado.

Tips for Santiago

1) Grab a Bip! card to access public transportation including buses and metros. You can pick up the card and charge it at metro stations.

2) Acquaint yourself with different barrios throughout the city. We spent the night in neighborhoods Lastarria, Bellavista and Las Condes.

3) Orient yourself with a free city walking tour. We went with Tours 4 Tips and enjoyed a 2.5 hour trip peppered with commentary on Chile’s social and political landscape.