Onboard in Southern Patagonia: Taking a Ferry to Isla Navarino

Transportation to the end of the Americas isn’t cheap. One trip — a combined 45 minutes by bus and 20 by boat — cost us more than US $100 each. But there’s one journey that shouldn’t be missed: the ferry from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams, a tiny port town on Isla Navarino, just north of Antarctica.

Operated by Transbordadora Austral Broom, the ferry leaves on Thursdays at 6 p.m. and Mondays at 1 a.m. It costs CLP 110.000 per person. The fee for the 30-hour trip includes dinner the first day, plus breakfast, lunch and dinner on the second day.

Getting to Austral Broom

The ferry terminal is relatively easy to access from the center of town, thanks to the frequent busses and colectivos (communal taxis). Upon arriving to Punta Arenas, you can catch a bus from downtown by walking from the central plaza to 21 de Mayo. Ask a local for help — everyone we encountered was more than happy to suggest a few transportation options. We took the bus line 2, which left us just a few blocks from the ferry terminal.

Arriving on the day of our departure, we were able to purchase our tickets directly from the terminal. But only a few seats remained. If you’re in Punta Arenas for a few days, I’d recommend grabbing your ticket a couple days in advance. Or book via email or telephone, as explained on the company’s website.

We embarked with about 50 other passengers, a handful of whom came with cars piled high with mattresses and larger goods. Isla Navarino is truly remote, linked to the world at large by the Austral Broom ferry and the aforementioned pricy jaunt (which went to the more costly and touristy Ushuaia). The island has gained notoriety for its trekking circuit Dientes del Navarino. “Navarino’s Teeth” — so named for the sharply pointed mountain range — wind across the island. We took the ferry primarily to hike the trail, and we assumed most other travelers planned the same. But it turned out that many people took the longer route simply for the novelty of floating through the Strait of Magellan to the Beagle Channel.

En Route to World’s End

We began the journey with clear skies, but clouds collected by the later evening. This deep south, the sun doesn’t set until 10 p.m. On the night of our departure, we watched it descend into a steely gray. Dusk was serene.

The weather, unfortunately, stayed gray throughout our second day. But the views along the Beagle Channel remained clear. Jacques — a retired tour guide from France — pointed out an active volcano. We also passed numerous glaciers, one of which reached down to touch the sea. Along the way, there were whales, dolphins, sea lions and loads of birds.

We arrived late to Puerto Williams: population 2,000, charm infinite. Shops, public service offices and homes cluster along the shore, the peaking mountains just beyond. Anything brought to the island stays there, as evidenced by rusting vehicles along the sidewalks. Still, there’s a sense of pride in residence; homes are tidy and stores are well stocked. It seems that people are there, at the tip of the continent, because they want to be.