When you look at Uruguay on a map, it barely registers between giants Argentina and Brazil. But this small country packs a cultural punch — from ramshackle seaside towns to sprawling centuries-old vineyards.
“Cada parte es única,” a shopkeeper in Carmelo told me. After an 11-day road trip around Uruguay, I had to agree: Each area is unique.
Path to Uruguay
After deciding to switch jobs, I needed to exit the country with my work visa and return on a three-month tourist visa. My boyfriend Connor suggested taking the opportunity to tour around Uruguay — a country I’d previously overlooked as a destination.
I’d stopped into Uruguay’s Colonia a number of times, once for a travel piece for The Bubble and again as a novelty during my parents’ stay; “let’s hop across the river to Uruguay” sounded so freewheeling to me.
But Connor thought it better to take our time in Uruguay — advice echoed by the shopkeeper: “No hay apuro acá.” There’s no rush here.
Colonia
We kicked off the trip with a ferry ride from Buenos Aires to Colonia via SeaCat Colonia. The company operates within the Buquebus station but often at a lower price than the port’s namesake.
Once across Río de la Plata, we nestled into El Buen Suspiro, a partially underground wine bar off a cobblestone alleyway. In the back, the locale extends to an outdoor garden nook. There we popped open our first bottle of Tannat — Uruguay’s bold signature red wine. (Thanks to Connor’s meticulous tasting notes, we have a record all 15 Tannat samplings we’d eventually try.)
After the Km. 0 Tannat, we walked through Colonia’s historic district to Charco, a riverside inn and restaurant. There I ate the best salmon I’ve ever had: flakey, fresh and spiced with a creamy curry sauce.
After sleeping off the food coma, we rented a car from Budget and drove the 2.5 hours down to Montevideo.
Montevideo
Anxious to hit the beach cities, we spent just 24 hours in Montevideo. Our highlight was staying at Palacio Salvo, a residential and office building designed by an Italian immigrant who mapped a similar structure in Buenos Aires. The architect had imagined a lighthouse atop each building, communicating across the river. Palacio Salvo earned only a set of antennas that were eventually removed.
Montevideo’s Food Scene
During an afternoon gastronomic tour (read: meat and wine and meat and wine), we stopped into Mercado del Puerto, a wrought-iron train station turned indoor market. Consumers can chose from a bevy of steak and seafood restaurants; we opted for one with an upper deck overlooking the market. Post-steak, we walked to Montevideo Wine Experience, a cozy corner shop where we received an insider’s take on Uruguayan wine. The friendly host, name-dropping a couple local winemakers, guided us through a tasting of five different varietals. My favorite came from Alto de la Ballena, a seaside vineyard and winery that we decided to tour around.
Within the Montevideo culinary scene, a nod is also due to La Farmacia — easily the coolest cafe I’ve ever been to. The coffee shop and bar sits within an old pharmacy. Instead of having been gutted, the structure showcases its historic origins; the walls are lined medicine cabinets and the ceiling is trimmed with ornate wood moulding. The building itself is a beauty, and the coffee serves up all the right drugs — espresso drinks to hand-brewed coffees on the Chemex, French press, cold drip and more.
And then there’s chivito…
What’s a chivito, you ask? It’s the national dish of Uruguay: a thin slice of tender cooked beef steak with mozzarella, tomatoes, mayonnaise, olives, and usually also bacon, eggs and ham, served as a sandwich, often accompanied by French fries. See also: just a light little lunch.
En route to Punta del Este, I’d recommend stopping into Bar Arocena to split a chivito and fries. We ordered two, with regret. The dish (unshockingly) is a bomb, yet the airy neighborhood vibes at Bar Arocena make gluttony feel less egregious. Or at the very least, you’re in good company.
Punta del Este
Before arriving to Punta del Este, we visited Casapueblo: a whitewashed, sea-inspired masterpiece by an eccentric Uruguayan artist who once resided and worked in the structure. It’s now a hotel and museum that exhibits pieces by Casapueblo’s designer. I’d suggest perusing the grounds for an afternoon and sticking around for the epic 360-degree ocean sunset.
We spent our nights in Punta del Este at F&F Hostel, a super affordable accommodation that goes far beyond your average hostel. It has fantastic service, a great location and complimentary breakfast. And there’s a pool! And space to do morning yoga! I gush, but this lovely little place is ideal for enjoying the 80s glamour of Punta del Este.
And when you get hungry, there’s always a drive-thru steak dinner.
A visit to Punta del Este is incomplete without a stop at Las Nenas, a traditional parrilla that offers the option of drive-thru dining. Beyond the absurdity of ordering steak from the driver’s seat, the restaurant’s appeal centers around its organic beef and ample sides. We ordered ours and headed to the beach.
Although we didn’t stay in any nearby beach towns, two of their restaurants are worth a mention. Aguas Blancas is a laidback eatery a few blocks from the beach. Be sure to get the seafood raviolis. El Chancho y la Coneja, opened by a husband-and-wife duo, serves up freshly made pasta. We devoured the cheese-stuffed gnocchi.
Punta del Diablo
Up the coast, you’ll find the bohemian paradise of Punta del Diablo. Sand streets are lined with small restaurants and cottages, many of which are built from renovated shipping containers. We stayed at Mate Amargo, a tiny Airbnb near the beach owned by an Argentine woman. The host’s Dutch husband rents bicycles ($380 pesos), which you can take for the day to Fortaleza Santa Teresa. The 24-kilometer round trip ride works up an appetite, so I’d suggest packing a picnic to enjoy outside the fortress grounds.
When we didn’t cook at home, we ate out at Cero Stress, a casual eatery with delicious fish. Which takes us to our next stop…
Cabo Polonio
Half the fun of Cabo Polonio is getting there. Traveling 7 km from the main highway, visitors enter the beach town on foot or via off-road vehicles. Opting for the Optimus Prime, we sat top and center for a bumpy (and seat belted) ride.
The village comprises a smattering of rickety buildings. We stayed at Hostel Lobo, a fort-like structure with a couch on the roof and attic bedrooms overlooking the ocean. At the hostel’s restaurant, a traveling chef brings international flair to the traditional seaside cuisine. (And for the record: Uruguayan fish > chivito.) After dinner, a hostel employee told me that new construction isn’t allowed in the protected hamlet, so hoteliers make additions with loose nails and chunks of plywood. With no running water or electricity, Cabo Polonio operates off generators and, as I see it, those glorious hippie vibes.
Carmelo
At the end of the trip, we drove to the other edge of Uruguay to visit Carmelo, an emerging wine town resting on the Río de la Plata. Just outside the town center, the landscape opens up to long dirt roads, sprawling pastures and modest vineyards.
Nowhere is the spirit of Carmelo more evident than at El Legado, a family-owned boutique winery. After arriving on bicycles, we were greeted by a puppy who’d just joined the clan. Close behind was the property’s owner, Bernardo. A jovial sun-tanned Uruguayan, Bernardo inherited the land from his father, who’d planted grapes and dreamed of opening a winery. In his father’s honor, he opened El Legado. And the winery pays beautiful tribute: impeccable grounds, top-notch charcuterie boards and — you guyyys — the most amazing wine we tried in Uruguay. Beyond the tasting, we relished listening to the owner and watching his family welcome their guests. This place is special. I look forward to seeing how the legacy carries on.
While in the area, we stayed and ate at Campotino, another small winery with a posada, tasting room, and garden for its restaurant. In addition to breakfast, the posada offers complimentary bicycles for visitors to wander down the town’s dirt roads.
On our last day in Carmelo, we stopped into Almacén de la Capilla, a colorful store that showcases historic wares alongside local wine and pickled produce. We bought a couple jars of tart goodies, strolled through the verdant vines, and reluctantly returned to the ferry station.
Traveling From Carmelo
We headed home to Buenos Aires via Cacciola, a company offering ferry rides between Carmelo and Tigre. In comparison to the SeaCat trip, Cacciola’s smaller ferry makes for a bouncy route. But any hint of seasickness is compensated by the visit to Uruguay’s sweetest wine town and the eventual views of Tigre’s riverside cottages.
Tips for Visiting Uruguay in October
- Don’t trust Google in the shoulder season. Many recommended restaurants will be closed — often with boarded-up doors until the upcoming peak months.
- You can shop and dine tax free, a perk offered to international cardholders. Meals receive the 22% discount on the spot, but shopping taxes are refunded at customs. Note that this only works from larger borders (i.e. Colonia, Montevideo, Punta del Este). For instance, Carmelo does not offer tax kickbacks.
- Rent a car! Using the insurance covered by my credit card, we nabbed a sturdy little economy car for USD $134 for eight days. We filled up the tank twice and spent about USD $150 total on gas. Despite the steep petrol prices, the expense is worth the freedom to roll around Uruguay on your own four wheels.
